Of course, these days plenty of chefs are hawking products and hustling for TV gigs — Mario Batali, Bobby Flay, Tom Colicchio, Mr. Bourdain himself.
And yet very few of them come in for the vigorous hazings that Mr. DiSpirito endures.
Mr. DiSpirito defends his career path with missionary zeal. What he loves to do, he says, is to bring his rarefied culinary skills to regular folks everywhere. And he hasn't rule out the idea of opening a restaurant someday in the future.