Wednesday, June 24, 2009

Tupelo: Louisana meets Cambridge

Boston Globe: There are infinite ways to describe food eloquently, evocatively, lovingly. But sometimes you just want to say “yum.’’

This is the case at Tupelo, a new restaurant serving “comfort food with a Southern drawl’’ in the old Magnolias space in Cambridge.

The term “comfort food’’ has become an old saw, nearly meaningless. It can cover everything from meatloaf to wonton soup.

Here, though, it seems the most apt label: These dishes are truly comfortable and comforting, offering layers of taste and texture you can’t easily pick apart, and don’t really want to. The braised, the fried, the stewed, and the roasted share the stage, an easy ensemble.

There is delicious synthesis on your plate - no need to overthink it.

  • 1193 Cambridge St., Cambridge. 617-868-0004.
    All major credit cards accepted. Not wheelchair accessible.
    Prices Small plates $5-$8. Entrees $9-$15. Dessert $7.
    Hours Tue-Sat 5-10 p.m., Sun 5-9 p.m.