Monday, May 5, 2008

An appetite for tradition

In the old North End, Saturday was tripe day. The cow stomach bubbled in pots in kitchens all over the neighborhood, simmering in spicy tomato sauce. "Everybody ate the same thing every week," says Carla Pallotta, who runs Nebo with her sister, Christine.

Tripe can be tricky - and, frankly, stinky - to prepare. It must be properly cleaned, by soaking and boiling, then braised for hours to make it tender. People no longer know how to cook it, and they don't have time. In 1920, the North End was 90 percent of Italian descent. In 2006, it was about 30 percent, as well-heeled young professionals moved in and families, priced out of the real estate market, moved on.